Testimonials

Testimonials
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May 21, 2008

To whom it may concern:

Mark Goddard was hired as landscaper for 3 luxury properties by Kema Kama llc, a property management company in West Hawaii. One property he cared for was in Kona proper, another is an ocean front estate near Kona, and the third is an estate at Hualalai, which is part of the Four Seasons Resort properties.

Two of the properties had suffered greatly from improper care in the past, and Mark was able to bring them back to vitality. In all cases he provided dedicated and detailed care. His artful and creative approach to grounds maintenance was appreciated, and he leaves those properties standing out as exceptional ones.

Mark has the rare quality of providing frequent and detailed communication which only enhances the value of his efforts. The give and take of teamwork comes naturally to him as does a true dedication to providing exceptional landscaping service with integrity. His diligence and willingness to go above and beyond, and always in the best of spirits, is certainly one of his outstanding qualities.

Anyone considering Mark for landscaping services is welcome to contact me directly as a reference.

Sincerely, Kema Nash,
Owner
POB 349 Kealakekua, HI 96750
www.kemakama.com
omkema@hawaii.rr.com
808-895-3674
- Kema Nash, Kema Kama LLC – Property Management, Kealakekua, Hawaii
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“I would put your properties up against any other in this area. The effort you put into high-end grounds maintenance truly shows.”
- Ron Geiger, South Kona Handyman, Hawaii
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“Unusually creative . . . fantastic design for a succulent and cactus garden. Mark offers reasonable quotes and realistic time schedules. I highly recommend Mark Goddard for any landscape design or maintenance work.”
- Jeff & Tamar Culberson, Alameda, California
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“You are my creative gardener. The extensive design work you pulled off in the back yard is fabulous. I love my grassy area surrounded by all that color!”
- J. Padilla, Oakland, California
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“Many thanks to Mark Goddard and Marc Krupin for doing such a beautiful job landscaping the front entry to our school.”
- Live Oak Waldorf School, Applegate, California
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“Mark, the pond feature that you redid for us is something we now sit at and admire regularly. It is so peaceful to sit by in the moonlight. Thank you for all the work you did.”
- Christina Slowick-Cox, Meadow Vista, California
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“We really appreciate the way the place looks. It’s great to know that someone shows up and cares about what he is doing. The roses have been truly amazing. We have enjoyed the medicine wheel garden.”
- Bonnie Rust, Nevada City, California
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“Mark transformed the whole premises into a flowering, rich paradise. Before Mark’s efforts, the backyard was a significant eyesore consisting of broken concrete, scrap materials and overgrown weeds. The front and side yards were just concrete. Mark hauled off the debris, weeded and planted beautiful plants throughout. The backyard became a meditation garden in the middle of the city. Mark created flower beds in the front and side yards as well, adding color and beauty.”
- Joyce Scott, Emeryville, California
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“Your work has transformed my front yard from something we didn’t know what to do with, into an experience like taking a hike in Tahoe National Forest.”
- Marcie Kleiman, El Cerrito, California
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“I love what you did with the huge retained hillside in the back. The color and the fragrance of all the plants make for an enjoyable experience every time I go out the back door.”
- Ben-Oni, El Cerrito, California
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“Mark, this is really great what you’ve done for my property during the five years you worked for me. Your maintenance work has been wonderful, but the fire safety work, creation of trails on my 60 acres of land and care for the 180 tree heirloom orchard goes beyond.”
- Hon. William Newsom, Dutch Flat, California
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“The design work you did in my back yard transformed it into something amazing. What you managed to do with what was already here [iris, other plants], the space and your pathway layout design gave an expanded sense of space.”
- Bob Church, Carmichael, California
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For professional, artistic, organic landscaping in the greater Sacramento Area – Sierra Foothills Area, please call: (530) 575-8079

Design & Plant Selection

Design & Plant Selection

As a designer and landscape maintenance professional, I observe over and over again poor choices of plant selection for a property or a place in a yard. Either the plants are chosen because the owner happens to like that particular plant for this or that location or a developer uses the plants because of cost and availability reasons. Both of these are extremely important reasons, however, I am taking a larger world-view perspective on this issue.

Consideration needs to be given to the plant’s preferred growing conditions, mature size, and it’s adaptability to the particular environment to avoid overcrowding, disease and infestation, structural damage to home or sidewalks, transfer of pests to home (ants walking from leaves to home) and the inevitable comment, “Why did they put that there?”

Growing Conditions – Each plant evolved in a particular soil type, climate (sun exposure, water demands, seasonal change), terrain, and community of plants. I have done design work in intermountain environments (Sierra Nevada), Mediterranean climate (Bay Area) and I now interact with plants in a tropical environment (Hawaii). This will impact your placement of the plant for sun exposure, how much water you need to deliver, and nutrients you need to provide.

Nutrients – Given the above growing conditions, including the geology of the place it came from, the plant has specific nutritive needs. Some plants are more sensitive and fussy about this than others. This is particularly true when you are designing or planting with native plants. If you are planting native plants and you work with a community of plants, you will find that they support each other’s health, and you may find suddenly that other plant will just appear by association because these plants evolved with one another.

Plant Size – A plant will only reach a certain height and girth before it reaches the end of its life cycle. Sometimes this is on the magnitude of 20 feet, 50 feet or over 100 feet. This impacts where you place such plants for the long term, or whether on not you even use them. If you choose larger plants for a location that you prefer a smaller height and girth, the plant may work, however, you will be spending more time pruning.



Best wishes,

Mark Goddard.

Landscape Design

Landscape Design

 

THE SANCTUARY GARDEN
“The kiss of the sun for pardon
The songs of the birds for mirth;
You are nearer God’s heart in a garden
Than anywhere else on this earth.”
- Traditional saying

You sit, in perfect balance, embraced by nature’s beauty, your senses come alive, you come fully home to yourself, and your very heart flowers with joy. You know the experience of which I speak. Every time we take the time to be fully present in the natural world, whether in the wilderness, a tended city park, or our own backyard, we return to our inner stillness. Peace fills us as we drink in the colorful flowers, the standing trees, the singing birds, the blowing breeze.

Your own garden can be transformed into a sanctuary, a place of respite and relaxation, of healing and inspiration, of balance and natural rhythm.

I specialize in this type of garden design. The creation of a sanctuary garden is in some ways simply a matter of intuitively listening to your own land, honoring what is already there, and enhancing it with other naturalistic or exotic elements to create the effect you desire. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, I highly recommend the excellent book The Sanctuary Garden by Christopher Forrest McDowell and Tricia Clark-McDowell.

For many people, though, there simply isn’t enough time to really devote the necessary energy and resources, nor the technical horticultural and geological know-how, to really make your space into the holistically healing sanctuary it can become. And there are many considerations. In sanctuary gardening, in addition to the usual factors of space, topography, style, house and other structures, lighting, color, usage, irrigation, fire safety, local ecosystem including geology, flora and fauna, etc. you also need to consider your spiritual practice and healing needs. Are you looking for a place where you can meditate? Do art? Conduct rituals? Family gatherings? Do you want a small, closed feeling or an open space? What about privacy? Also consider your relationship with the Earth, rocks, plants, animals, natural elements such as wood, stone and water, and garden art.

This checklist of sacred garden features may help you decide what you want in your sanctuary garden design:

o An entryway that makes your sanctuary garden feel sacred
o A secret garden
o Herb garden or scent garden (aromatherapy)
o Garden features to attract butterflies, birds, or wildlife
o Meditation area or elements that invite sitting
o Pond or waterfall
o Healing garden
o Sound elements such as wind chimes
o Garden for romance
o Garden for prosperity, health and success
o Children’s garden
o An altar or shrine area for sacred objects (statues, cross, etc.)
o Proper placement of all elements for optimum harmony and beauty
o A strong, central “sacred symbol” such as a labyrinth, mandala or medicine wheel

So many of us spend most of our time in the garden, well, gardening! Pretty soon your garden can feel like just another project, a never-ending chore. We may forget to stop, sit, smell the roses, and just be. Psychologist and doctor Jon Kabat-Zinn, author of the best selling Wherever You Go, There You Are, asks: Are you a human being, or a human doing?

“When we give ourselves the gift of sacred time in a special place, we are feeding our spirit with love. Indeed, to sit in sanctuary is to love ourselves anew. It is to allow orselves to be one with, aware of, and witness to Creation that IS an act of love.” – The Sanctuary Garden.

I’d like to address two other important points in sanctuary gardening: the art of placement, and sacred patterns.

The ancient Chinese art and science of harmonious placement is called Feng Shui. I am not a Feng Shui practitioner but have researched and do apply some Feng Shui principles, which creates spaces that are both imminently practical and aesthetically pleasing. Garden Feng Shui emphasizes the relationship between humans and nature. The Chinese have observed this relationship in great detail for thousands of years and created this system based on those observations. Feng Shui practitioners believe that “if you live in harmony with the living earth, you will lead a life of contentment, happiness and abundance.” (Feng Shui in the Garden by Richard Webster).

Sacred symbols such as labyrinths (European), mandalas (Indian) and medicine wheels (Native American) are circular patterns with a strong central focus which can be used for meditation and spiritual practice. I specialize in incorporating these into garden spaces. They can be small or large enough to walk through, made of flowers, rocks, shrubs, plants, wood, et al., usually are laid out to align precisely with the four compass directions, and can be designed and constructed to enhance your personal spiritual path. Call me for more information
(530) 575-8079.

If you choose to consult a professional landscape designer to help you design and/or create your sanctuary garden, find one who recognizes the importance of garden spaces that invite you to just sit and be. One who shares your reverence for the Earth, for all of Nature, and for your little piece of it in particular. Blessings to you and your sacred space.

Good luck,


Mark Goddard

Garden Winterizing

Winterizing Your Garden

[Sierra foothills focus]

The yearly growing cycle is coming to a close yet the work of nature continues. For all of us who enjoy the rewards of gardening during warm months of the year, we have an opportunity to bolster the health of our land by giving back to it at this time. As Fall ends and Winter begins officially on December 21, bringing more rains, snow and deep cold, we can take solace in the solstice by doing a number of things for Mother Earth: pruning, preparing the soil, and planting.

Pruning benefits are many. These include beautification, disease control, safety of buildings, and fire prevention. An uncluttered wooded area is a beautiful site that enhances planted areas. Removing dead or diseased branches is the only way to stop the spread of contagious tree illnesses including insect infestations and fungal diseases.

Given that many of our remote areas are covered with second and third-generation tree growth, the trees may grow too close together. Active thinning of excess trees can resolve this problem. Healthy cedars and Douglas Firs need space for light to reach them and for healthy dense canopies to develop. With the trees that remain, pruning is essential. In stands of trees, I recommend cutting all of the dead branches, which are usually the lower ones that don’t get adequate light. This prevents entry of fungus spores and insects. When these excess branches are cut close to the trunk, the trees exhibit a clean, natural appearance that attractively opens up your space. Pruning also reduces fire risk and prevents excess roof weight (for trees near the house and other structures). PG & E suggests a cleared area of 10 feet for these purposes.

Speaking of fire, burning season has begun. Enjoy the sticks and branches you’ve gathered from all that pruning in the old pot-bellied stove or fireplace for warmth. The rest you can process with controlled burns on allowed burn days. Call fire department/Forest Service. Chipping is a good way to get mulch from this wood; chippers are commercially available. Also, Departments of Forestry often have a free chipping program if you don’t want to buy or rent equipment.

Ah, the falling of the leaves. Rather than cursing them for all that raking work, you can look at the bright side. The leaves’ falling can facilitate healthy soil preparation . . . and indoor romance. Curious? Read on.

That compost pile you worked so hard on throughout the year? I like to put that rotted material into garden spaces, along with horse manure, and turn it all under. This will add warmth and nutrients to the soil. I choose horse over cow manure because of the greater amount of steroids and antibiotics that go into cows. What goes in must come out. Then I put a very thick layer of leaves over the entire garden — an easy way to clean the yard and put the garden to bed for winter. The layer of leaves protects the garden from erosion and weed growth and enriches the soil as the leaves decompose. Wood chips are not recommended because they can increase soil acidity and will not break down over the winter. They are, however, appropriate around acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas and pines.

Many of us have favorite old black oaks on our property and now can see the mistletoe with the oak leaves gone. Now is a good time to cut out the mistletoe and bring it inside for holiday smooching, as mistletoe is a parasitic organism that can eventually kill your oaks. Yes, mistletoe is far more romantic indoors than on your oaks outside. Childcare safety: Be sure the mistletoe is secure and out of reach of children as it is a poison if ingested.

Most people do not consider winter time for plantings. However, this actually is a great time to plant trees, shrubs and perennials. Trees, shrubs, and perennials planted now will have the entire wet season to get established. This also makes your work easier in terms of watering to get newly planted plants established during the dry season. It is still a good time to plant bulbs. These rhizomes and bulbs which are excellent for spring color are diverse, plentiful and inexpensive. They are usually planted 1.5 to 2 feet deep with some rich soil that is a mix of compost, loam and native soil. Always plant with the pointed end up. Here is a blooming tip for iris: add a little bone meal to the soil, you will get larger and a greater number of blooms. This mixing of rich soil with that found on the premises helps the new plants be prepared when their roots reach the surrounding hard ground strata.

If you don’t wish to wait until Spring for bulbs to bloom, you can force them by using the following method. Get a pot with drain holes. It can be large enough to hold several bulbs. You can use small rocks for drainage or that special bulb filter, obtainable at nurseries. Then put a layer of potting soil and place the bulbs in pointed side up. fill in soil around the bulbs to just cover the tips, then water them. Place them in a cool place at 48 degrees F or a little cooler (but do not freeze them) for 12 to 15 weeks. You can also bury the pots in the ground. Then bring them into a warm room, and in 2-3 weeks, voila! Flowers will be up. This method works especially well for hyacinths, daffodils and narcissus. Amaryllis and paperwhites do not require the cold exposure and can be put in a warm environment immediately after planting.

Happy growing!,

Mark Goddard.

Permaculture

What is “Permaculture”?

Permaculture, as defined in Bill Mollison’s book, Permaculture: A Designers’ Manual, is:

“Permanent agriculture, [or the] conscious design and maintenance of agriculturally productive ecosystems which have the diversity, stability, and resilience of natural ecosystems. It is the harmonious integration of landscape and people providing their food, energy, shelter, and other material and non-material needs in a sustainable way. Without permanent agriculture there is no possibility of a stable social order

Permaculture design is a system of assembling conceptual, material, and strategic components in a pattern which functions to benefit life in all its forms.

The philosophy behind permaculture is one of working with, rather than against, nature; of protracted and thoughtful observation rather than protracted and thoughtless action; of looking at systems in all their functions, rather than asking only one yield of them; and of allowing systems to demonstrate their own evolutions.”

There is a critical need for understanding of organisms’ roles in creating soil and breaking down waste products, hydrologic systems, and the impact that plants themselves have on an environment.

The human study is also important, namely, how our material culture has effected the environment, both in terms of energy required to make and transport things, and how and if those items break down in the environment. How do we use resources? How do we build our homes to achieve durability, protection, funtionality, beauty, health and harmony with the biosphere? What energy sources will enable us to continue our quality of life without continuing ecological disruption? What are the gains and sacrifices of moving in the direction of a permacultural lifestyle? What is the role of the human being in a permacultural system?

There is also a spiritual component to this way of living.

I will be sharing ideas about how we can achieve a sensible, sustainable existance in this regard.


Best wishes,

Mark Goddard.

Organic Pest Control

Organic Pest Control

My approach to pest control in general, is twofold. First, how can I achieve results through bringing the ecosystem back into balance as best as possible, since the pest infestation is symptomatic of there being an imbalance in nature. Secondly, how can I do this in the simplest, safest way possible, given that doing work commercially requires efficiency?

First, I must address the use of chemicals to achieve goals.

Embracing the fact that pest infestation is a symptom of an ecosystem out of balance, we need to reestablish that balance. Imbalances include things like poor plant health, which may stem from poor soil health, or presence of dead material in the plant. Plants living in the wrong growing conditions will have to struggle more to survive. This leaves them vulnerable to disease, so they need our help or to be removed.

People have been sold the benefits of chemical use for both weed elimination and insect control. Chemicals have limited results (even though there may be instances where chemical use is the only option). Where chemicals are successful, they are in a limited way. Even if there is 100% success, it is temporary. It would be analogous to a person taking a psychotropic drug and getting a promised “high” and then needing more and more of the substance to achieve the same result. Then after investing so much time and money into the drug to solve the problem, the person finds out that the problem has not been solved, but gotten worse. This is closer to the truth.

Case in point with herbicides and weeds:
In the landscaped area, it is natural to have some weeds. Weeds are pioneer plants that will grow in any growing environment. Their role in nature is to pave the way to an established ecosystem phase, i.e., forest via mature grassland. They are annuals, they grow fast and die to produce organic materials for larger vascular plants.

So we have some weeds. If the ground is cultivated and the soil is healthy, the weeds are easy to extract by hand. In areas of high foot traffic and compaction, the weeds are harder to remove and may leave root materials to grow new plants after extraction.

Lets say we use Roundup to quickly and easily get rid of those weeds. The chemical is designed to kill the hardy pioneer plants, so if a wind picks up, that application is going to get on your lawn or your more delicate ornamentals or on your leg through your pants. Anybody have respiratory problems like asthma? The delivered poison is combined with a salt. Since soil is living (organisms which metabolize nutrients for healthy plants live there), the poison will affect that soil. So will the salt that it is combined with (which remains after). Therefore, the weed dies, the soil dies and becomes impotent, and all the things you have diligently planted, which have been exposed to the overspray will die. Alright, we got rid of the weed right? That was our goal? The even more unsightly dead weed is still there and has to be grubbed out. Even though Roundup is supposed to become inert and non-toxic after 24 hours, there are other chemicals that may remain poisonous and be absorbed through the skin when you go to do what you could have done in the first place, without chemical application – wear gloves.

Now, if we look at the definition of a pioneer plant, i.e., weed – it is a plant that will grow in a harsh, transitional environment where no other plants will grow, to pave the way for a healthy, established ecosystem, we find that by taking a short cut to make our lives easier, we have complicated our situation. Since the soil is dead, the only thing that could possibly grow there would be a weed. Not only that, but because weeds produce a high amount of seed material and have a high rate of turnover growth, they genetically adapt to their environment, specifically the applied chemical. They become tougher. Also, since the soil value is depleted, the second, third and fourth generations of weeds will look uglier than the original weeds you could have easily pulled by hand. And those weeds will spread into your surrounding ground covers and then you are faced with getting them out without stepping all over the ground cover…

If we look at the big picture, the American Midwest was practically the breadbasket for the world. It was an area of deep, rich, black soil that could grow anything because glacial advances pushed the soil south out of Canada during the last Ice Ages. My German ancestors immigrated here during the 1860’s. I have copies of the letters in German that they sent back to brothers who remained in the Old World, proclaiming the miraculous qualities of this place and its soil. Since the end of WWII, our dependence on chemical fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and large-scale farming has skyrocketed. The soil is now poorer and the runoff of the chemicals has made the Mississippi River undrinkable and unsafe to swim in. Fish populations have plummeted. In places like Hawaii, chemical runoff from sugar cane and pineapple crops have killed coral reefs. Worldwide, these chemicals seep down through the ground and get into the deep geologic aquafers, from which we get our drinking water through wells. Less than 2% of all of the water on earth is potable or drinkable. The global human population exceeds 6 billion and we are still using chemical fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides that get into the water.

Case in point with insects:
Take the argument above and replace all the words “weed(s)” and “pioneer plant(s)” with insect pests and my point is made without wasting more writing space. I do need to mention that in order to grow produce (fruits and vegetables), one must have pollinators, and lots of them. These are the bees, butterflies and a host of other insects, which go about making sure the product we need to survive actually materializes. The problem with insecticides is they are not species specific. In other words, we spray for the bugs that eat the plants because they are weak and we kill the beneficial pollinators that give us our food. Taken a step further, the birds eat the bugs that have been exposed to the pesticides and become sick and die. What role does pesticide application around the world play in the spread of bird flu viruses? I don’t know.

Solutions that have worked for me:
Cultivated soil percolates water better, gives plant roots room to grow and be healthy, and it looks great. It also makes weeding a breeze. I can take this a step further by obtaining shredded plant material and using it as a mulch dressing. It prevents erosion, keeps in water (reducing overall water usage) and it prevents weeds (those few that do grow are easily removed). The long-term benefit is that the material breaks down, providing humus and nutrients to the soil. Depending on your climate, you may need to mulch 1-4 times per year, a time investment that will save you tens of hours of weeding and gallons of water. In many, geographic areas, green waste, from professionals like me and anyone cleaning their yard, is processed, composted and made available for free or a nominal charge for this very purpose. It also looks great.

Regarding insect pests, the reality is we will always have to deal with them, especially in tropical environments where we don’t have the benefit of a freeze to keep down insect populations. There may even be instances where chemicals are needed to control damage. But, I enjoy my work a lot more when I am not worrying about exposure to substances that will make me sick, get stored in my body tissues or even kill me.

A highly knowledgable arborist can balance plant health, growth and aesthetic appearance of everything on a property to limit use of chemicals. Pruning stimulates growth. eliminates dead materials that are a pest’s unsightly entryway into a plant, and is a form of sculpture.

Between pruning rounds, a hose-end sprayer that has the multiple flow options (jet or shower are best), can be used to spray off all leaf and trunk surfaces. The leaves are clean and lush and the full range of insect pests are managed. You wash off ants, whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids and even scale (the latter two are tended to by ants who love their sweet secretions). You also get rid of their eggs, thereby disrupting the reproductive cycle of the pests. After that, an application of an organic oil by sprayer makes the returning pests stick and die on the leaves. I have tried canola oil mixed with a few capfulls of bleach, but the best treatment is a mixture of Neem oil with water. One application will usually do, however, you may need to spray once a week, as in the tropics. In the mean time, isolated pest infestations can be pruned out. The key is keep your life simple, be diligent and organized.

A liquid soap is also useful for spraying pests in the same manner. Dr. Bronner’s has no phosphates and is available at health food stores. The eucalyptus scented one may also work for you to repel pests. There is a symbiotic scenario whereby you end up having several pest populations supporting one another. Ants like the sweet, sticky secretions of aphids, scale, mealybugs and others. Ants will actually tend to them to get more of what they want. The sticky substances, which end up over all surfaces of the plants, grows sooty mold. The sooty mold covering the leaves prevents sun exposure and production of chlorophyll, resulting in loss of leaves. A coating of sprayed soap acts as a surfactant on the leaves, which gives you an upper hand in spraying off the sooty mold with a hose-end sprayer. There have been instances on high-end properties with guests, where I have actually gone in with pail of soapy water and rag and wiped off all of the leaves!

Natural pest control can be brought in to help out. Praying mantises and ladybugs are common beneficial insects. Lizards and geckos also eat insect pests.

Another aspect of pest control often overlooked as such, is fertilization with good organic fertilizers. The chemical ones will leave their salts in the soil, but a good fulvic acid or a good fish emulsion-based fertilizer will do well when sprayed from a mixture with water. Check for specific plant needs. If you are container composting and have access to a good compost tea, use that. There is a general rule of thumb. Plants feed themselves by dropping their dead leaves to compost under their drip lines. If you are able to do plant specific composting, those plants will have all of their nutritive needs met.

You can control insect pest entry into households by pruning away any plant material that touches the building and keeping a vegetation-free zone of a foot and a half around the whole structure. It can be filled with gravel.

Good luck,

Mark Goddard

Fire Safe Plant List

FIRE SAFE PLANT LIST/
INVASIVE PLANTS NOT TO USE
[California & Western U.S.]

COMMON NAME – BOTANICAL NAME

Ground Covers:
« Yarrow – Achillea tomentosa
« Rock Rose – Cistus vellosus
« Dwarf Coyote Bush – Baccharis pilularis prostratus
« Morning Glory Bush – Convolvulus cneorum
« Australian Fuchsia – Correa
« African Daisy – Osteospermum fruticosum
« Sunrose – Helianthemum nummularium
« Statice – Limonium perezii
« Green Lavender Cot. – Santolina Virens
« Perennial Verbena – Verbena peruviana
« Silver Mound – Artemesia caucasica
« Capeweed – Arctotheca calendula
« Snow in Summer – Cerastium tomentosum
« Winter Creep – Euyonymus radicans
« Aaron’s Beard – Hypericum calycinum
« Candytuft – Iberis sempervirens, Lippia repens, Myoporum parvifolium
« Creeping Rosemary – Rosmarinus officinalis prostrata
Shrubs:
« Bearberry – Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
« Silver Spreader – Artemesia caucasica
« Escallonia – Several Varieties
« Texas Privet – Ligustrum texanum
« Italian Buckthorn – Rhamnus alaternus
« Lemonade Berry – Rhus integrifolia
« Star Jasmine – Trachelospremum
« Hopseed Bush – Dondonaea viscosa
« Toyon – Heteromeles arbutifolia
« Carolina Cherry – Prunus caroliniana
« Catalina Cherry – Prunus lyonii
« Carmel Creeper – Ceanothus horizontalis
Trees:
« Carob – Ceratonia siliqua
« California Pepper – Schinus molle
« Brazilian Pepper – Schinus terebinthifolia

***************************************************
Dry & Sunny Conditions

EXOTIC ANNUALS
Shirley Poppy, Papavar rhoeas
Marigold, Tagetes lemmonii
Mullen, Verbascum spp.
Zinnia, Zinnia spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE ANNUALS
California Poppy, Escholzia californica
Tidy Tips, Layia platyglossa
Lupine, Lupinus spp
Monkey Flower, Mimulus spp
Purple Tansy, Phacelia tanacetifolia
Chia, Salvia columbariae
Windy Poppy, Stylomecon hertophylla
Clarkia, Clarkia spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE PERINNIALS
Horsemint, Agastache urticifolia
Purple Milkweed, Asclepias cordifolia
Delphinium, Delphinium spp.
St. Catherine’s Lace, Eriogonum giganteum
Blanket Flower, Gaillardia aristata
Blue Flax, Linum lewisii
Lupine, Lupinus spp.
Monkey Flower, Mimulus spp.
Penstemon, Penstemon spp.
Coyote Mint, Monardella villosa
Evening Primrose, Oenothera spp.
Matija Poppy, Romneya coulteri
Sage, Salvia spp.

EXOTIC PERENNIALS
Wooly Yarrow, Achillae tomentosa
Basket of Gold, Alyssum saxatile
Thrift, Armera maritime
Caucasian Sage Brush, Artemisia caucasica
Red Valerian, Centrathus rubber
Indian Mock Strawberry, Duchesnea indica
Flea Bane, Erigeron “speciosus”
Red Hot Poker, Kniphofia uvaria
Statice, Limonium latifolium
Beard Tongue, Penstemon spp
Russian Sage, Perovskia ‘Blue Spire’
Lavendar Cotton, Santolina chamaecyparissus
Stonecrop, Sedum spp.
Dusty Miller, Senecio cineria
Thyme, Thymus spp.
Society Garlic, Tulbaghia violacea

CALIFORNIA NATIVE SHRUBS
California Barberries, Berberis spp
California Lilac, Ceanothus spp
Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis
Flannel Bush, Fremontodendron calfornicum
Toyon, Heyeromeles arbutifolia
Monkey Flower, Mimulus spp.
Hollyleaf Cherry, Prunus ilicifolia
California Coffeeberry, Rhamnus californica
Lemonade Berry, Sugar, Squash Bush, Rhus spp.

EXOTIC SHRUBS
Strawberry Tree, Arbutus unedo
California Lilac, Ceanothus var “Blue Jeans” & “Julia Phelps”
Rock Rose, Cistus spp.
Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster spp.
Pineapple Guava, Feijoa sellowiana
St. Johnswort, Hypericum spp.
Myrtle, Myrtus spp.
Hollyleaf Osmanthus, Osmanthus heterophyllus
Firethorn, Pyracantha spp.
Senecio, Senecio greyi

CALIFORNIA NATIVE TREES
California Buckeye, Aesulus californica
Madrone, Arbutus menziesii
Black Oak, Quercus douglasii
California Black Oak, Quercus kelloggii
Interior Live Oak, Quercus wislizenii

EXOTIC TREES
Silk Tree, Albizia julibrissin
Strawberry Tree, Arbutus unedo
Oregon Ash, Fraxinus latifolia
Honey Locust, Gleditisia tricanthos
Carolina Laurel Cherry, Prunus caroliniana
Portugal Laurel, Prunus lustinica

CALIFORNIA NATIVE BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Onion, Allium spp.
Brodiaea, Brodiaea spp.
Mariposa Tulips, Globe Tulips, Calochortus spp.
Soap Plant, Chlorogalum pomeriduanum
Stonecrop, Sedum spp
Fremont Camas, Zigadenus fremontii

EXOTIC BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Most bulbs, such as Tulips, Narcissus, and Hyacinthus
do best in dry summer conditions & provide a low fuel level.
Fall crocus and alliums are also low fuel choices. Many
hardy succulents are available from local nurseries and mail
order sources, see source list.

CALIFORNIA GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Blue Wildrye, Elymus glaucus
Creeping Wildrye, Elymus triticoides
California Melica, Melica calfornica
Pine Bluegrass, Poa scabrella
Nodding Stipa, Stipa cernua
Purple Stipa, Stipa pulchra

EXOTIC GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Prairie Sky Switch, Panicum virgatum
Blue Avena Grass, Helictotrichon sempervirens

****************************************************
Wet & Sunny Conditions

CALIFORNIA NATIVE ANNUALS
Farewell to Spring, Clarkia spp.
Douglas’ Coreopsis, Coreopsis douglasii
Birds Eye, Gilia spp.
Arroyo Lupine, Lupinues succulentus
Baby Blue Eyes, Five Spot, Nemophilia spp.
California Bells, Chinese Lanterns, Phacelia spp.

EXOTIC ANNUALS
Dwarf Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus
Wax Begonia, Begonia semperflorens
Pot Marigold, Calendula
Madagascar Periwinkle, Caltranthus rosens
Blue Lobelia, Lobelia erinus
Sweet Alyssum, Lobularia maritime
Forget-Me-Not, Myosotis sylvatica
Petunia, Petunia hybrids
Primrose, Primula spp.
French Marigold, Tagetes patula
Nasturtium, Tropaeolum majus
Viola, Viola spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE PERINNIALS
Wooly Yarrow, Achillae tomentosa
Sea Thrift, Armeria martima var. californica
Butterfly Weed, Asclepias speciosa
Marsh Marigold, Caltha howellii
Jimson Weed, Datura meteloides
Jeffreys’s Shooting Star, Dodecatheon jeffreyi
Iris, Iris spp
Lupine, Lupinus spp.
Monkey Flower, Mimulus spp.
Hummingbird Sage, Salvia spathacea
California Blue Eyed Grass, Sisyrinchium bellum
Golden Eyed Grass, Sisyrinchium californicum
Violets, Viola spp.

EXOTIC PERENNIALS
Lily of the Nile, Agapanthus orientalis
Anemone, Anemone
Camomile, Anthemis nobilis
Pinks, Carnations, Diantus spp.
Euonymus, Euonymus spp.
Gaura, Gaura lindheimeri
Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens
Lavendar, Lavendula spp.
Lupine, Lupinus spp.
Mexican Evening Primrose, Oenothera berlandieri
Herbaceous Peonies, Paeoia spp.
Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalis
Iceland Poppy, Papavar nudicaule
Cinquefoil, Potentilla spp.
Perennial Pincushion Flower, Scabiosa caucasica
Stokes Aster, Stokesia laevis

CALIFORNIA NATIVE SHRUBS
Plallid Service Berry, Amelanchier spp.
Manzanita, Arctostaphylus spp.
Tree Anemone, Carpenteria californica
Ceanothus, Ceanothus spp.
Buttonwillow, Cephalianthus occidentalis
Mt. Cream Bush, Holodiscus boursieri
Ca. Mock Orange, Philidelphus lewisii var californica
Ninebark, Physocarpus capitatus
Western Choke Cherry, Prunus virginiana var demissa
Gooseberry, Ribes spp
Douglas Spiraea, Spiraea douglasii
California Snowdrop Bush, Styrax officinalis var californica

EXOTIC SHRUBS
Japanese Boxwood, Buxus microphylla
Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster spp.
Escallonia, Escallonia spp.
Pineapple Guava, Feijoa sellowiana
Holly, Ilex spp.
Privet, Ligustrum japonica ‘taxum’
Heavenly Bamboo, Nandina spp.
Cherry, Prunus spp.
Pomegranate, Punica spp
Viburnum, Viburnum spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE TREES
Box Elder, Acer negundo var, californicum
Foothill Ash, Fraxinus dipetala
Western Sycamore, Platanus racemosa
Fremont Popular, Populus fremontii
Red Elderberry, Sambucus callicarpa
Blue Elderberry, Sambucus caerulea

EXOTIC TREES
White Alder, Alnus rhombifolia
Eastern Redbud, Cercis Canadensis
Filbert, corylus avellana
Hawthorn, Crataegus spp.
Crape Myrtle, Lagerstromia indica
Magnolia, Magnolia spp.
Crabapple, Malus spp.
London Plane, Platanus acerfolia
Aspen, Cottonwood, Popular, Populus spp.
Flowering Pear, Pyrus calleryana

CALIFORNIA NATIVE BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Onion, Allium spp.
Brodiaea, Brodiaea spp.
Camas, Camassia spp.
Chocolate Lily, Yellow Bells, Fritillaria spp.
Munz Iris, Bowl Tubed, Iris spp.
Bloomers Tiger Lilly, Lilium humboldtii var. bloomerianum

EXOTIC BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Lilly of the Nile, Agapanthus spp.
Anemone, Anemone,
Canna, Canna spp.
Daylily, Hemerocallis spp.
Iris (bearded, beardless, Dutch, Foetid), Iris spp.
Lily, Lilium spp.
Freesia, Tritonia spp.
Calla Lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica

CALIFORNIA GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Slender wheatgrass, agopyron trachycaulum
Sedge, Carex spp.
Tufted Hairgrass, Deschampsia caespitosa
Creeping Wildrye, Elymus triticoides
Rush, Juncus spp.
Deergrass, Muhlengergia rigens

EXOTIC GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Feather Reed Grass, Calamagrostis arundinacea
Sedge, Carex spp.
Sea Urchin Blue Fescue, Festuca ovina glauca
Blue Avena Grass, Helictotrichon sempervirens
Rush, Juncus spp.
Maiden Hair Grasses, Miscanthus spp.
Blue Leafed Little Bluestem, Schizachyrium scopulorum

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Shaded & Dry Conditions

CALIFORNIA NATIVE ANNUALS – None

EXOTIC ANNUALS – None

CALIFORNIA NATIVE PERINNIALS
Henderson’s Shooting Star, Dodecatheon hendersonii
California Wood fern, Dryopteris arguta
Iris, Iris spp.
Pitcher Sage. Lepechinia calycina
Lupine, Lupinus spp.
Western Peony, Paeonia brownii
Pink, Silene spp.

EXOTIC PERENNIALS
Corsican, Foetid Helleborus, Helleborus spp.
Gladwin Iris, Iris foetidissima
Sword Fern, Polystichum munitum

CALIFORNIA NATIVE SHRUBS
Gooseberry, Currant, Ribes spp.
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos

EXOTIC SHRUBS
Bishops Hat, Epimedium spp.
Heavenly Bamboo, Nandina domestica
Gooseberry, Currant, Ribes spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE TREES
Interior Live Oak, Quercus wislizenii

EXOTIC TREES – None

CALIFORNIA NATIVE BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Firecracker flower, Brodiaea ida maia
Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria biflora
Lily, Tiger Lily, Lilium spp.

EXOTIC BULBS & SUCCULENTS – None

CALIFORNIA GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS – None

EXOTIC GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS – None
****************************************************
Shaded & Wet Conditions

CALIFORNIA NATIVE ANNUALS
Chinese Houses, Collinsia spp.

EXOTIC ANNUALS
Fibrous spp. Treated as annual, Begonia semperflorens
Impatiens, Impatiens wallerana
Forget-Me-Not, Myostis

CALIFORNIA NATIVE PERINNIALS
Monkshood, Aconitum spp.
Venus Hair Fern, Adiantum capillus veneris
Five Fingered Fern, A. pedatum ver. aleuticum
Red Columbine, Aquilegia Formosa
Goats Beard, Aruncus vulgaris
Ginger, Asarum spp.
Lady Fern, Athyrium filix femina
Pacific Bleeding Heart, Dicentra Formosa
Iris, Iris spp.
Western Sword Fern, Polystichum
Skullcap, Smilacina spp.
Wake Robin, Trillium spp.
Giant Chain Fern, Woodwardia fumbriata

EXOTIC PERENNIALS
Bears Breech, Acanthus mollis
Carpet Bugle, Ajuga reptans
Columbine, Aquilegia spp.
False Spirea, Astilbe spp.
Bergenia, Bergenia
Bell Flower, Campanula spp.
Lilly of the Valley, Convallaria majalis
Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis
Foxglove, Digitalis spp.
Wild Strawberrry, Fragaria chiloensis
Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum
Coral Bells, Heuchera spp.
Blue Star Creeper, Isotoma fluviatilis
Purple Nightshade, Solanum xanti
Violets, Viola spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE SHRUBS
Sierra Kinnickinnick, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi
Oregon Grape, Berberis aquilifolium
Smooth Dogwood, Cornus glabrata
Western Dogwood, Cornus occidentalis
Western Burningbush, Euonymus occidentalis
Mt. Cream Bush, Holodiscus boursieri
Twinberry, Lonicera involucrate
Thimbleberry, Rubus parviflorus
California Huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum

EXOTIC SHRUBS
Flowering Maple, Abutilon spp.
Cast Iron Plant, Aspidistra elatior
Camellia, Camellia spp.
Mexican Orange, Choisya ternate
Bush Morning Glory, Convulvus cneorum
Daphne, Daphne odora
Euonymus, Euonymus fortunei
Hybrid Fuchsia, Fuchsia hybrida
Magellanica Fuchsia, Fuchsia magellanicia
Gardenia, Gardenia spp.
Hydrangea, Hydrangea spp.
Oregon Grape, Mahonia spp.
Heavenly Bamboo, Nandina domestica
Lily of the Valley Shrub, Pieris japonica
Rhododendron & Azalea, Rhododendron spp.
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris
Viburnum, Viburnum spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE TREES
Maple, Acer spp.
Alder, Alnus spp.
Sierra Dogwood, Cornus nuttallii
California Bay, Umbellularia californica

EXOTIC TREES
Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum
Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo
Eastern Dogwood, Cornus florida

CALIFORNIA NATIVE BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Fairy Lanterns, Calochortus spp.
Fawn Lily, Erythronium spp.
Iris, Iris spp.
Lily, Lilium spp.

EXOTIC BULBS & SUCCULENTS
Arum, Arum spp
Lilly of the Valley, Convallaria majalis
Lily, Lilium spp.

CALIFORNIA GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Rush, Juncus spp.

EXOTIC GRASSES & GRASS-LIKE PLANTS
Rush, Juncus spp.
Lily Turf, Liriope spp.
Mondo Grass, Ophiopogon spp.
Spiderwort, Trasescantia viriginiana

****************************************************
Non-deciduous & Evergreen Shrubs as Screens & Hedges

CALIFORNIA NATIVE SHRUBS
California Lilac, Ceanothus spp.
Yerba Santa, Eriodictyon trichlocalyx
Flannel Bush, Fremontodendron
Fremont Silk-Tassel, Garrya fremontii
Toyon, Heteromeles arbutifolia
Oregon Grape, Mahonia spp.
Hollyleaved cherry, Prunus illicifolia
California Coffeeberry, Ramnus californica
California Laurel, Umbellularia californica

EXOTIC SHRUBS
Strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo
Barberry, Berberis some
Boxwood, Buxus spp.
Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster some
Silverberry, Elaeagnus spp.
Euonymus, Euonymus some
Holly, Ilex
Bay, Laurus nobilis
Glossy Leaved Privet, Lingstrum teranum
Myrtle, Myrica spp.
Photonia, Photonia some
Evergreen Huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum
Viburnum, Viburnum spp.

****************************************************
Pyrophytes – Plants that are extremely combustable

Characteristics of plants not recommended for fire prone areas are:
· High surface area to volume ration
· Low moisture content
· A high percentage of dead matter or debris

Plants marked with a P are extremely combustible. Use these plants with great care as to proximity to structures or other plants and with proper maintenance and ground clearing.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE & EXOTIC TREES
Fir, Abies spp.
Cedar, Cedrus spp.
Cypress, Cedar, Chamaecyparis spp. (except dwarf)
Cypress, Cupressus spp.
Larch, Larix
Spruce, Picea spp.
Pine, Pinus spp. (including dwarf)
Arborvitae, Thuja spp.
Hemlock, Tsuga spp.

CALIFORNIA NATIVE & EXOTIC SHRUBS
Chamise, Greasewood, Adenostoma fasciculatum (P)
Red Shanks, Adenostoma sparsifolium (P)
California Sagebrush, Artemisia californica
Brooms, Cytisus, Genista, Spartium
Hopseed Bush, Dodonaea viscose
Buckwheat, Eriogonum spp.
Juniper, Juniperus spp. (P)
Chaparral, Pickeringia Montana

CALIFORNIA NATIVE & EXOTIC GROUND COVERS
Coyote Bush, Baccharis spp. (P when over grown)
Algerian Ivy, Hedera canariensis
Juniper, Juniper spp. (P)

CALIFORNIA NATIVE & EXOTIC GRASSES,
PERENNIALS & VINES
Bamboo, Bamboo spp. (P)
Pampas Grass, Cortaderia selloana (P)
Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica (P)
Eulalia Grass, Miscanthus
Deer Grass, Muhlenbergia spp.
Fountain Grass, Pennisetum setaceum (P)
Black Sage, Salvia mellifera (P)

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Invasive plants NOT TO USE in landscaping

Oxalis spp.
Scotch Broom, Cytisus scoparius
French Broom, Cytisus monspessulanus
Portugese Broom, Cytisus striatus
English Ivy, Hedera helix
German Ivy
Princess Tree, Paulownia tomentosa
Madagascar Periwinkle, Catharanthus roseus
Tree-of-heaven, Ailanthus altissima
Asparagus fern, Asparagus densiflorus
Catalpa, Catalpa spp.
Yellow star thistle, Centaurea solstitialis
Red Valerian, Centranthus ruber
Pampus Grasses, Cortaderia spp.
Iceplant, Carpobrotus aequilateralus
Bermuda Grass, Cynodon dactylon
Knapweed, Centaurea spp.
Acacia, Acacia spp.
Eucalyptus, Eucalyptus spp.
Mint, Mentha spp.
Oleander, Nerium oleander
Bamboo, Creeping, Phyllostachys spp.
Common Plantain, Plantago major
Bradford Pear, Pyrus calleryana
Sumac, Rhus spp.
Blackberry, Rubus spp.
Periwinkle, Vinca spp.

The website:

http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/

Provides an extensive list of invasive plants and where they are a problem. Please note that some native California species are listed here. The problems arise when a plant that is acclimated to the harshness of a particular environment and is introduced to another where it can flourish, it can take over and crowd out native flora in that region, thereby eliminating a habitat.

 

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Fire Safety Diagram

Fire Safety Preparedness

FIRE SAFE DIAGRAM
[Courtesy of the Fire Safe Council]

 

Please note: many localities require 100′ clearance of buildings, however trees and bushes can be pruned accordingly.

Soil Health & Composting

Soil Health

Where does our food come from?

Soil health has an eventual impact on our health because it is the most basic foundation of the planet’s web of life, and humans are the ultimate top of the food chain. If the soil has less nutritive value, fruits and vegetables produced in it will have less nutritive value. Overall soil quality has diminished as a result of large-scale single crop agriculture that employs chemically derived fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. Natural soil is alive with bacteria, fungi, insects and other organisms that coexist and have balanced food chain roles, which result in the creation of a rich growing environment for plants. When plant nutrients are bound with chemically derived salts, the plants take up the nutrients and leave the salts behind to make the soil toxic to beneficial organisms in it. It in essence becomes dead. Herbicides and pesticides destroy helpful organisms on plants and in the soil, as well as the pests. The pests and weeds become resistant to the chemicals, which are repeatedly applied, so ironically, they become the only things that can survive in the lifeless soil. Wind and rain remove the topsoil year after year and diminish the amount of biomass that previously existed. It is shown that chemical runoff from major agricultural areas, has poisoned large river systems such as the Mississippi. Conversely, undisturbed, healthy forests have some of the richest soils that can be found.

How Soil Developed / The Biologic Cycle & Biotic Community

The long-term evolution of life on earth (3.5 billion years) has created a delicate balance of coexisting organisms. Larger, more complicated organisms depend on smaller organisms and plants for food. Larger numbers of these smaller organisms are required to sustain the lives of the larger organisms. Plus, the population of food source organisms must be large enough to reproduce as well as feed the predator pool. With each consecutive group of organisms down the food chain, a larger number of those being eaten is required. There is a balance where species survival is protected, and you can see a pyramid model of critter interdependancy. It is a finely tuned cycle of birth and consumption. Living soil is made up of many organisms and materials. There are as many as six horizons of soil: [illuvial zone] of bedrock; unconsolidated parent rock material; accumulated weathered rock products (clays, silica, silicates, carbonates, oxides, aluminum, iron, humus material and salts like gypsum); [eluvial zone] leaching zone; mixed leached minerals with high organic matter content; [above soil surface] organic litter (undecomposed, decomposing and humus).

The Rot

Dead, decaying matter that smells bad isn’t dead and dying. The decomposition process is one of life and recycling organic matter. Death is meal time for many things.

 

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Organisms
Primary Consumers (eat organic residues)

Earthworms (Lumbricus terrestris)-They are burrowing, tunneling, eaters of non-living organic materal. They aerate and enrich the soil. They are responsible for the concentrating of nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and potassium, as well as bacteria and enzymes in their casts (feces), which is one off the greatest sources of fertilizer. They neutralize organic acids in the soil, making it a rich growing environment. Earth worms do not do well in mechanically compacted soil and are extremely vulnerable to the use of pesticides and herbicides.
Whiteworms- (Phylum Analida, Class Oligochaeta) – like earthworms.
Fungi, molds and yeasts- These organisms break down tough debris. These process even dry, acidic or low nitrogen content materials. Saprophytes feed on dead, decaying material.
Millipedes-
Mites- Two segmented arthropods with sucking mouth parts and four legs. They eat vegetable matter under.
Nematodes-Small worms that are the size of a human hair
Snails & Slugs- Even though these have a role in the decomposition process, they many are notorious for eating the leaves of plants.
Sowbugs/pillbugs/isopods-
Bacteria-Generate heat through the decomposition process. Mesophilic (2-3 day temperature increase), thermophilic (Thermus bacteria) (maximum temperature phase, 3 days to 4 months) – breakdown of complex carbohydrates, fats and proteins and destruction of pathogens at a temperature range of 90° – 140° F., Cooling and maturation (2-3- months) – return of meophilic organisms. Bacteria are 80% of the life forms found in compost and are made of one cell.
Actinomycetes- Fungi-like bacteria that create the recognizable smell of soil.- exist in outer 10 – 15 cm of soil and grow during cooling period.
Insects/Larvae- Any fly that sets foot in my house is dead on arrival, they are welcome to live outdoors and to play their role as bird food for Western Bluebirds and Flycatchers and to help with composting. They lay their eggs in the decaying matter and the maggots consume decaying matter.

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Secondary Consumers (eat primary consumers)

Microbes-
Protozoa- Single-celled animals consuming bacteria and fungi.
Rotifers (Rotifera)- Microscopic animals living in aquatic environments in slime, lichen and moss.
Soil flatworms- considered a pest in soil as it preys on earthworms.
Springtails- spring-like tail appendage (furcula) under abdomen launches them up to 4 inches upwards. They eat fungi and algae, as well as, vegetable matter in compost. They are the only insect able to break down DDT.
Feather-winged beetles- feed on spores of fungi

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Tertiary Consumers (eat secondary consumers)

Centipedes- Feed on arthropods (insects and spiders), as well as worms and larvae. They poison their prey.
Predatory mites- – Two segmented arthropods with sucking mouth parts and four legs. They eat other insects.
Rove beetles (Staphylinidae) – Prey on smaller insects. They have small elyta (wing covers and large jaws)
Formicid ants
Carabid beetles- ground beetles
Spiders-
Pseudoscorpians- shaped like scorpians, but have no stinger.
Earwigs (Dermaptera)- they eat dead or living vegetable matter and insects. Characterized by forceps at end of thorax that is used in capture of prey, defense and mating.

Enzymes

Chemical derived from the organic processes of decomposition, which aid plant growth.

Composting

Our efforts to assist the natural process of decomposition of organic materials by means of controlling conditions of moisture, air, temperature and acidity. Turning materials with a pitch fork, adding water and sometimes needed amendments to speed up soil making.

Soil Nutrition Maintenance

Compost is added to existing soil to enrichen it.

Green Waste & Dry Waste

Green waste includes kitchen scraps, fresh cut grass, fallen fruit and soft leaves(green or colored); basically wet materials containing enzymes and higher concentrations of nitrogen and potassium.

Dry waste materials include dried leaves, grass, hay and other organic litter. It can also include newsprint without non-organic colored inks (much of the print industry is now using soy based or other natural inks). This is a high source of carbon matter.

Turning & Mixing

Turning the compost mixture is important for the sake of aerating it. Decay is an aerobic process, since most organisms breathe air. Once a week with a pitchfork is usually sufficient, however, the rotting process is accelerated with increased oxygenation.

Moisture & Heat

A compost mix will not decompose if it either is soaking or dried out. Heat is a natural byproduct of bacterial breakdown of biogenic materials.

 

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Composting Techniques

Worm Bins – great for obtaining castings (vermicompost – worm waste) as soil fertilizer. A box (wooden, glass or plastic), strips of newspaper and kitchen vegetable waste (not cooked). You want to create a warm, moist, aerobic and dark environment for the worms. Cover inside of wooden boxes with plastic Two species of worms to use include Eisenia foetida and Lumbricus rubellus. Boxes should be no more than 6 inches deep and lids should be loose to allow air flow. Process takes 3-5 months. Then take worms out of their waste into a new environment, i.e., second worm box, or just separate compost from unprocessed material and ad more kitchen waste and newspaper. Worms will leave waste and go to new food source. The lifespan of earthworms is about a year. They are hermaphrodites.

Use a shallow 8-12 gallon container. Tear newsprint without color print to strips _ to 1 inch wide. Spray the paper to make it damp, but not wet. Fill box to 75% and sprinkle 2 to 5 cups of good soil(previously composted) on top to introduce bacteria and fungi to the system. Keep track of number, weight or volume of worms added to the system. They consume three times their weight in food. Do not include dairy, meat, oil, bone or cooked products. Citrus and banana rinds are also too large or dense to process. Gently bury the food in the bedding of newspaper. Periodically change out a whole sheep of newsprint of control moisture balance. Once a week feed worms and keep the bedding moist and lofty. Keep temperature between 50 and 80° F.

1 million worms in 1 acre of soil will produce 700 pounds of castings per day. Reproductive gestation 7-10 days. Eggs hatch in 14-21 days. 1-5 worms emerge from an egg. They are mature in 2-3 months. There are 3,000 species of worms worldwide.

Compost Tea – 1-2 cups of worm castings to 2 – 3 gallons of water and allow to steep for 24 hours. Use as rich fertilizer.

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Above Ground, Open Composting
A simple 3′ x 3′ x 3′ pile of combined materials will suffice for composting.
Wind can be an issue, so fastening chicken or gardening fence wire around four garden stakes with an opening on one side will take care of this.
Setting up side-by-side compartments will allow you to separate composted materials from remnant unprocessed leaves, etc., turning them in the process.
Also, Smith and Hawkins has a recycled plastic 3′ x 3′ x 3′, tri-stack, covered compost bin that makes turning easy.
Barrel composters are highly effective at speeding up the turning process with the crank of a handle. Do it yourself with an oil barrel or purchase one of many models made commercially.
A simple open pit midden (hole in ground) with some sort of cover may suffice for you. You may end up bending over more,
In situ composting by digging deeper holes, placing manure or other rich material in at depth, placing soil and then planting works well. The plant grows and sends down roots. When the roots reach the nutrients, the plants take off. Native American tribal peoples used to put a fish in the ground when they planted.
This is really one of the best ways to compost. Get several 33-gallon black trash cans. Put your compost in these. The cans increase the temperature level, as they sit in the sun, thereby increasing the composting process. They are convenient in that they keep out rodents, are relatively tidy and don’t take up that much space. Keep the material moist and well mixed for best results. Ideally, have an empty can or two on hand to transfer material into for turning. This technique is good for small parcels of property, where space is an issue.

You can also drill the right size hole on the side at the bottom for collection of compost tea. In this case, it is best to have the cans on a platform of crates or two-by-fours.

 

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KITCHEN COMPOST

Add a mixture of some or all of the following
ingredients:
Vegetable/fruit peels and seeds – depending on the time of year, he compost pile can be a great source new growth material for planting out. Squash are easily identified and grown.
Egg shells – an excellent source of calcium.
Nut shells
Coffee grounds
Any other vegetable or fruit scraps

Note: (Do not add meat scraps, bones, dairy
products, oils, or fat. They may attract pesty
animals or transmit disease.)

 

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YARD OR GARDEN COMPOST

Add a mixture of some or all of the following
ingredients:
Hay or straw
Wood chips
Grass clippings
Weeds and other garden waste – (if you are composting a lot of weed material, you may need to compost for an extended period of time to destroy all of the seed material, i.e., up to seven years).

(if you are composting a lot of weed material, you may need to compost for an extended period of time to destroy all of the seed material, i.e., up to seven years).
Leaves – I still love jumping in huge piles of these in the Fall before they have been composted. Trees feed themselves with the nutrients from fallen leaves around their base, so this is optimal for soil production.

Manure – Make sure this is completely composted as it can be acid enough to burn your plants. Also, if you have treated your livestock for parasites or insects, these pesticides are not good to grow edibles in.
Ashes – may need to be shorted with oyster shell to reduce the acidity levels.
Shredded paper – most inks used these days are soy-based. Others are toxic. It is not advisable to compost papers that are glossy, colored inks. Shiny paper doesn’t compost.
Sawdust – another great soil producer. Watch out though! Many construction materials are treated to prevent insect infestation and dry rot. These substances are toxic.

 

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MANURE
Once again, this needs to be composted for longer durations as well, as it is acidic and may have pathogenic substances that composting will destroy. Chicken manure is excellent, followed by horse, cow or other farm animal byproducts.

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INNOCULANTS
If getting the composting process going is a challenge, or it is not working fast enough, an innoculant is helpful. Organic innoculants are commercially available.

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MULCHING
The benefits of mulching are numerous. The main ones include erosion prevention, weed control and soil health through breakdown of the materials.

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Happy growing!,

Mark Goddard.

Fire Safety Preparedness

Fire Safety Preparedness

Fire Safety & What To Do About Landscaping

Spring is here and winter weather patterns may soon dry up. Now is an excellent time to think about fire safety and landscape design. In all of my design projects, I find it best to consider all of a site’s issues – practical and aesthetic. In this article, I outline the major phases of a typical local landscaping project. Basically, I will remove what my client and I do not want and establish an aesthetic based on what remains. I look to thin out trees and bushes that crowd one another in an unhealthy way and remove deadwood, leaving healthy, well -shaped plants to frame views and keep visual screens. Removal of leaf litter and branches gives me a sense of the natural terrain, geology and natural vegetation that I am working with (To process this, refer to Soil Health…) These steps are crucial as they provide me with a clean canvas to work on. The side benefit is preventing the spread of plant diseases and reducing wildfire risks by creating breaks and higher open tree canopies.

Creativity through recycling. The material I use for small retaining walls, accent rocks and other features can come from the site. There are times when rock purchases are necessary, but my requirements dictate that they match what is already here. I often mimic natural geologic features for effect. The benefit is material cost savings and naturalistic appearance.

In all cases, I import high-quality, organic landscape soil mixes, because existing soil is usually deficient. Sculpting terrain for special effects is one of my specialties. Including high-quality soil will guarantee the best results for plants’ health and growth. They hold moisture and also stand up well to erosion. As I design, I think in terms of how to best present the home and/or other structures, create a greater sense of space and do it subtly. I want to unite the designed space with the surroundings. I incorporate seating and play areas, eating spaces, paths and other features to invite people out into their yards as special places to be.

Water features create relaxing environments and serve as potential fire hazard buffers.

My design plant list is spectrum-wide depending on client taste, local ecosystems and design features. Much of what I choose is native, drought and frost hardy or it blends well in the naturalistic spaces I create. Fire safety, healthy vegetation and aesthetic harmony are all connected, and we are better off seeing the whole picture instead of separate components alone. Fire-safe plant list includes natives, non-natives and their habitats.

Do-it-your-selfer tips. Pruning, thinning and cleaning as I have described above makes a great impact as far as fire safety and beauty. Deadwood can be addressed year-round. Keep in mind that it is best to prune living material in the fall, winter and spring before new growth emerges to prevent invasion of disease and insects. Also, by doing this, you create defensible space where fire fighters can control a burn. If you are on flat terrain, this should be at least 30 feet from your home. If you are on a hill, this should be at least 150 feet. The steeper the slope, the greater the distance.

Cleanup. The ongoing task of every landscaped space is the disposal of accumulated grass and leaf waste. Compost! There are numerous ways to rot this stuff down including purchasable compost bins, but I’ll address this in a later article. Many people don’t have space for large composting operations… the solution? Yard waste recycling by composting is available in many geographic areas. Call local disposal facilities for information on green waste disposal. If you need mulch for garden spaces, the ground up, composted material is available for free or a nominal fee. Mulching reduces moisture loss and prevents erosion. Although chipping, composting and mulching are the ideal solutions for waste cleanup, sometimes burning may be the only alternative due to material size and volume. Admissable burn days occur during the cooler, wetter months of fall, winter and spring. Check with local fire district for burn times and get a permit from the fire department. Burn away from vegetaton, structures, and have running water via hose available at all times. Keep fire piles below four feet high and douse thoroughly at end of day.

Another means of creating a wildfire buffer is vehicle access for fire equipment in your backyard, which also serves as a firebreak (space that fire cannot jump across). Also, effective irrigation systems keep plants healthy and dryness minimized. Drip irrigation is the best for shrubs and perennials. It is water efficient but clogging may be an issue with well water sediments. Traditional sprinkler systems are best for lawns. In any case, a good timing system will save you effort and water. 4 am is the best watering time, because it is cool and there is no air movement. Also, if there is frost predicted, running a sprinkler system during frost spells will prevent freezing, as the ground water temperature is warmer than that of the air.